End of December I took a big step forward with my registration to the Banshee Miniature Academy on Patreon. Alfonso « Banshee » Giraldes and his team will coach me on a monthly basis going forward. Discover more about Banshee in an interview with Volomir. How is this a big step ?
Aside of the famous teacher, it also requires some involvement and dedication making sure to deliver and progress every 2/3 weeks. This goes along with increasing my “study” part, with more books about techniques but especially PRACTICE and more painting! I plan on delivering a new project every 4 to 5 months, that means 2 or 3 projects a year (= a display miniature), aside of regular Tabletop painting that I listed in the previous update. That might not seem much but considering I will be learning a lot of new stuff at the same time + I have all my TableTop painting and decors to finish off. We need to be realistic and even like this it will be a challenge.
Wat are the questions and techniques that pop in my mind to get knowledgeable about ? Well, while I will first focus on finishing off Ebylzadeath and Kahar from Figone.fr – I would say in no particular order:
- Freehand Tattoos
- Creating worn Leather
- How to paint fast or efficiently at Tabletop level
- Building contrast dioramas; such as Ice vs Fire for example
JANUARY 2019 SUBMISSION
I wish to finish off my project on Ebylzadeath from figone.fr. I did all the basics, but you will certainly have comments for improvement on the overall figure.
Link to Pictures & Videos:
- Helmet + shoulder-pad and bracelet was done with red and black ink (try-out) on a white basecoat; how should I finish them off ? Should I add some tear/wear for example?
- I am not into NMM – and would really work only on TMM because I prefer the look of it in general – my first attempt is on her TMM sword: what should I improve there ?
- The staff is done with GSW chameleon paint (probably doesn’t show well on the picture); Since it is shiny and reflecting, how do I add shadows on it ? (Similar question to adding shadows on metallic paint without losing the mettalic effect)
- The Hairlock/poney-tail is a bit dull, I was wondering how I could improve it
I am working also on Kahar from figone.fr. Critique: What do you see as improvements for him ?
Link to Pictures & Videos:
- The spear tip is supposed to be white bone/walvis tooth, but already used for hunting fish: How should I give it an old/used bone look ? I am not happy with what I did.
- The fishes on his backpack are difficult to reach (because I made the rookie mistake to glue them right away): would you work with washes to give them a « flashy look » ? (Violet/blue/red hues).
- I would like to do a small tattoo in freehand on his right shoulder. How do I start ? (Never done freehand before). I would go for a black Poseidon trident like in the picture example. I think that would work for a beginner ?
MY PAINTING OBJECTIVES
I put myself a 3 year objective to get to a “decent” level – investing in Patreon courses (I follow other patreons and had several courses and masterclasses with people you probably don’t know like L’Atelier d’Hutif or Salaise Figurine Studio, Little Demon Studio). You will judge about my current level, I would say that I’m a beginner with more knowledge about theory than practice.
My focus in 2019 will be:
- On painting all of the FFG Star Wars Legion game & expansions.
- I invested in War40K Kill Team factions and decors that I wish to also paint & play those.
- In parallel I would like to do 3 bigger projects this year end-to-end including the diorama’s that goes along with it. I guess it’s mostly on this last point that we will work.
I have 2 upcoming “brush” masterclasses for beginner level scheduled in February (GW mini’s focused on leather/skin) and March (a bust from Figone with focus on skin, leather, chainmail)
What I’ve already practiced in the last year (doesn’t mean I am good at it though):
- Basecoating (including reading a few books about color theory)
- Highlights (the “GW technique”)
- Washes & Glazing (incl. transitions)
- Black-lining (without much success) and Edge-lining
- Airbrushing basics
Where I have technique & knowledge gaps (amongst many other things to improve):
- Smooth transition using washes/glazes
- All weathering techniques
- Using pigments
- Using inks efficiently
- Doing details like eyes and hair (shades)
My first and foremost request is to learn to paint « fast with decent result ». I don’t need super-duper-mega-nice end-results for most of my games. I play boardgames, thus, a « tabletop » and « tabletop + » level is more than enough. It’s not for display, it’s not for contests. So What I’m looking forward to learn nice tips & tricks to be « fast/efficient » with a good result.
Concrete example I already learned from a video you made in December for another Journeyman is how you use the Aero Color orange ink, passing over an almost totally white highlight, that eventually gives you a great result without too much work. This is exactly what I’m looking for. Out of the 6 or 8 journeyman videos I’ve watched, that was the technique/tip that I see as the most useful (for me). Make me a happy man by teaching me/us more of those 🙂
OK so the list is quite long … and I will summerize it drastically because I don’t think you care about it that much, but I still want to give you a sense of all that I have so you know when you tell me about products to use if I already have stuff in stock and what I’m currently using.
- All Army Painter Range
- All Vallejo Air Color Range + 50 pots Game and Model color
- All Scale 75 Fantasy Range
- All Com-Arts range (normal + opaque + transparent colors)
- Most Golden High Flow (common colors)
- Half of the entire range of AK Interactive
- Half of the entire range of Reaper
- About 60 Pots of Citadel
- Rackham basic sets
- All Scale 75 Metallics
- All Darkstar Mettalics range
- All Vallejo Metallics range
- All Army Painter shades
- All Vallejo washes (incl. the « military » 30 ml bottles)
- All Citadel washes
- All Army Painter « Effects »
- All Vallejo « Effects »
- All Citadel Technicals
- All Citadel Dry-Brush
- All Tamiya « clear » colors
- Most of the Abteiling pigments
- Most ModelMates special effects (rust/slime/etc.)
- All Green Stuff World Chameleon Paints
- All Vallejo inks
- All Army Painter inks
- Most Aero Color inks (common colors)
- All Scale 75 Inktensity
- H&S Evolution Silverline (gravity feed) 0.15
- H&S Evolution X Silverline (suction feed) 0.20
- H&S Evolution M (suction/gravity feed) 0.20
- H&S Ultra (gravity feed) 0.40
To add some damage/explosions effects on your battlefield you should have a look at the website https://www.budsblastmarkers.com . There is some cool stuff available, but I’m a bit worried about shipping to the EU zone.
Along my surfing moments, I found some other interesting articles/readings this month:
- Great reviews of military vehicules and videos by Rick Lawlers called Propaganda.
- There is a worth to read article about the Flatting principle on The General’s Tent that goes along with the Flatting, Rendering and Detailing approach on the same blog.
- Volomir has published his selection of 100 inspirational projects in 2018. There are some truly amazing pieces of work !
I was searching for a quick and efficient approach to paint chainmail and found this on how-to-paint-miniatures.com :
Step 1: For chainmail, first mix up some black paint with 1 part water per three parts paint. This makes a thinned paint somewhere between full coverage and a wash. Paint this over all areas with chainmail on them. It should settle into the cracks like a wash, but it will dry with an intense black in the cracks of the chainmail. Mix up some gunmetal (black + silver 1:1) or a dark version of whatever metal that you are using (mithril: black + silver + blue).
Step 2: Drybrush this over the chainmail to make the high points of the mail B stand out. Then use the pure metallic color (no black added) to drybrush, doing so more lighly and applying less paint than before.
Step 3: Finally, add the pure metallic and white about 1:1 and very lightly drybrush the armor in the areas that will be most exposed to the background light, namely the shoulders, some on the chest, etc. Mainly the light will be most intense the higher up on the figure that you go. Just picture rays of light coming from directly overhead to see where the light shines on it at the closest to perpendicular angles as it strikes the chainmail. Drybrushing for chainmail should be done with downward stokes, which will make the highlights emphasized on the bits of the mail that reflect the most light.
If you’re looking for some live streaming to go along with your painting nights, I’ve finally put a short list of the Twitch channels I regularly follow. You will find many other links at the bottom of the weblog, have a look at the Education and Exhibitions category too ! Here’s the Twitch list:
What do you watch or listen to when you paint ? I discovered Mouse Guard: The White Wolf Reading from David Petersen that I really enjoyed and reminded me of Mice & Mystics and the miniatures I still have to finish off. Okay, admittedly it’s not “new”, and some of you might already know the series, but as I went on the website, I discovered the whole comics series on http://www.mouseguard.net and that you even have a role-playing game and free papercraft in that universe ! Damn, that look sweet to host with my kids when they will be 5-6 years old. I’m planning on getting the books (apparently the French translation is also very well done).
The printer is running again and I am catching up on my long list of overdue items; started off with the paint holder STL files from Sven. Result is pretty good.